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March 2009 
Halfway to a Hundred - What a Great Time! - Part Two - Grand Cany
Posted on Oct 16th, 2008
by 
WhiteWolf
WhiteWolf
Phew, playing catchup is no fun. It has been a heck of a week. Okay, now where did I leave off yesterday. Oh, that's right, I said I would talk about the Grand Canyon. Well now, pull yourself up a log, sit by the fire while I tell you about this special day.
We met MIke the day before to go over our itinerary. That's one of them there fancy words for what we going to do. Heh. Anywho, we decided to meet around 6:30. He was thinking earlier but then decided to wait a little longer so that we could see Oak Creek Canyon as we drove through it. Actually up and over it. So we packed up a couple of gallons of water. I remind you that in the high desert it can be deceiving as it is not baking hot, but it is very arid. You have to keep yourself hydrated. We had packed some food also so we could picnic up there.
Well, we heading through uptown Sedona heading towards Oak Creek Canyon. Mike had us swing down this little side road where we could go over a small bridge that took you over Oak Creek. Did I tell you it is the only continuously running water there? Reminded me of the rivers in New Hampshire. Back up to the main road (89a) and up into the canyon. He noted a spot off the side of the road where they have a fountain where you can refill your jugs with spring water if need be. Free.
Very soon we were in Oak Creek Canyon and winding up the sides. You have to go up and over to follow the road up to Flagstaff. The road was narrow, twisty, and very close to the edge. Didn't help that we had rented a Toyota 4Runner figuring we might need the off-road ability. It did have a very large tank, which was good for this long trip, but murder at the pump. The view through the canyon was breathtaking. It was a long way down if I veered too far right. I held my breath. Okay, not really.
We followed 89a up to Flagstaff and jumped on 40 to circle around town to the east. I forget the highway we picked up, but we were heading up to Cameron. On the way, Mike had us stop at Sunset Creater Park. The park boasts remnants of the lava flow when the mountain exploded. There were various levels of lava rock, from the huge boulders of black to the fine sand on the hills where the weather had beaten it down. We walked through part of the park, noting the plants that managed to grow through all of this. One hill was entirely covered with the lava now disintegrated into small gravel and black sand. They don't let people go up the hill so as to preserve its appearance. We saw a similar lava field off of Route 40 in New Mexico last year. This particular one is said to have traveled all the way down to Sedona, leaving in its wake very fertile soil.
We headed out from there and on up through the Dene (Navajo) Nation, stopping off at the ruins of Wupatki. I think I spelled that right. These were ruins much like the Anassazi left behind only redder. It is amazing that a lot of these ruins were abandoned around the 1100's yet most of the walls are still standing. Can you imagine our houses today still standing after standing abandoned all these years? It is interesting to note that each family had an apartment that was maybe 8x8 if that. Of course, they spent most of their time outdoors and used these rooms just to sleep or storage. There was also a round walled in area, that I believed, based on what I knew of the Anassazi, to be a kiva. This would be where meetings and ceremonies would take place. Further down was another one but oblong with openings at both ends. The archeologists surmised it must be a ball field since the Sanaqua were descendants of the South American tribes. I noticed that it was right alongside the wash, so I thought that it might have been used to capture the rushing water during the rains and they would close off the holes when it was full creating a reservoir. After all, the things we know now of the Aztec, Olmec, Inca, and others were that they were brilliant builders. Just off to the right from that was a unique feature the Native Americans called "the Breath of the Earth". There was a hole in the ground that led to an underground cavern. When the air pressure was high, it would suck air in, when the air pressure was low, it would blow it out. Thus, the breath. Really quite an amazing place set in a valley where you could see for miles.
Leaving off there we traveled north and soon Mike pointed out to our right. He told us that area was what a lot of people come out to see, the Painted Desert. He said there wasn't much out there, he thought the things we were seeing were more special. We continued driving on up and stopped at a Dene roadside stand. Some amazing artwork, especially the horsehair pottery and statues. They also had some great jerky. We got back in the car and Mike pointed out that paralleling us was the Little Colorado with its own sets of canyons. Mike said that the Little Colorado flowed blue while the Colorado flowed green. He loved to camp at the spot where they came together. Caveat campers, even if the sun is shining when you are down in these canyons, keep your ears open. A storm could be going on twenty or thirty miles away and all that water comes and meets and rushes down these canyons. If you hear the rush of water, get to high ground quickly.
Eventually we entered the park and stopped at the Watch tower. The tower designed by Mary Coulter was to blend in with the surroundings and have a great view of the canyon. Built from stone it features a gift ship and then a tower that you can climb up in and look out over the canyon. The stairs going up are very narrow and it is open all the way down. Well, anyone who knows me knows that I have a problem with heights. I had more than ample trials to overcome this fear. I did go up and even looked over the edge to take a picture of Mike and Cindy down below. Neither was going to go up. The interior is done very nicely. They hired a Hopi artist to do the paintings on the walls. The chairs and a table in there are made from limbs and hides. I believe the shot here was taken down one of the paths near there. Now, I have heard some people say that the Grand Canyon is just a big hole in the ground, but what a hole. It goes on and on with varying colors from the reds found down south in Sedona to the white limestone. The limestone is there because at one time, this was ocean bottom according to geologists. it is hard to believe when you are standing there looking down into the canyon that at one time this was once under water.
After staying at the Watch Tower for a bit, we headed on to another stop. I don't remember all the names, but needless to say, when you stop, it is like seeing the canyon all over the place. Two things affect what you see, the viewpoint, and the lighting. I really suggest that anyone going there take the time to spend the day. You may think you stop once and that is it, but each lookout point offers its own views and visions. Oh, and Mike warned us when we stopped for lunch to keep our food close. The squirrels are rather aggressive as I was later to find out. No, he didn't take my food, but crawled up on the wall in front of me and then down right near me and over my shoe to get at some food. I have been around squirrels all my life but never had one come right up to me like that. Mike said that if I had food in my pocket, he might have gone in after it. While at one stop, we were treating to a pair of turkey vultures flying in the canyon. Their wing span is about six feet but they looked no bigger than a raven from where we stood. At one of the information boards we noted one of the dangers, not being knowledgeable of the terrain before hiking.
An olympic marathoner and her friend decided to go down into the canyon. Between the two of them they had a couple of power bars, an apple and only a litter and half of water. They enjoyed the decent, the views and the wildlife, but soon her friend started to get sick. You have to remember that you are at an altitude in a dry climate. Drink plenty of water is the rule. Well, she found some shade and tucked her friend in there. She then started back up to get help. She didn't make it. Searchers did find her friend alive and she survived. The lesson to be learned is that you can be in the greatest of shape, but this is harsh country and needs to be respected. Don't be fooled by its beauty.
Well, we continued on our trip until we made it to the main entrance. We were going to camp out here until sunset and then get something to eat. This is where I met Mr. Squirrel, but better yet three condors. Unfortunately they were resting at the time, so I only got pics of two on a rock ledge and one in a tree. By this time the afternoon sun was starting to cast long shadows on the canyon. Like I said, stick around, the lighting changes and it is an entire new canyon. I snapped off dozens more pictures and then we decided to go down over near the mule trail. Mike said that it was a great opportunity for us to go "below the rim". Mike and I made our way down the trail over thirty feet down the canyon. Cindy said it was just a little too close for her, so she stayed at the upper level . I managed to take a shot of her "below the rim:". Only ten feet, but still below the rim.
There are two mule tours. A day tour that goes down most of the way and out over the mesa. The other goes down beyond the mesa to the canyon floor. I believe Mike said that was an overnight tour. Where the overnight trail breaks away from the day trail is a wooded area. From the canyon top, it looked like a green strip of bushes. Mike laughed. He said there is a camp ground in the trees and they are 100 feet high. Um, let me just back away from this edge a bit. Yeesh! we went back up top and nosed around in the gift shop. Cindy went over to check out the hotel. I went over to the Hopi House which was another Coulter designed house fashioned after the ruins like Wupatki. It housed a museum and gift shop.
By this time, the sun was starting to set. The whole canyon took on the warm glows of oranges, golds, and reds. Once again, a new view of the same scenes that gave a totally new look. The condors were gone, so I missed them taking off. Darn. The area we were was at an indent rather than a point so the sun set over the point to the west of us.
Once the sun was down, we went to the restaurant inside. We had a great meal to restore our energy. What a day. All we had left was the long drive back to Sedona.
Going out the main gate you passed hotels, motels, and restaurants. A kitchy difference from the beautiful way when we came in from the east. By this time it was dark and we had to keep talking so that Cindy could stay awake. She had decided to do the driving as I drove all the way up and Mike wasn't covered on the rental. We went down the road and passed the Bedrock Campground with the big Fred Flintstone. Glad we didn't come this way in. It was long straight roads all the way down, that is until we hit Oak Creek Canyon. Let me tell you, Cindy was wide awake through those twisty roads up and over the mountain. We managed to make it home in one piece. Tired, but full of awesome visions.
I was truly blessed and have great thanks for all who helped to make this trip the fantastic adventure it was.
As great as this trip was, it didn't measure up to the notes, emails, and letters that I received from my wife's family and especially my daughter. My daughter's letter brought tears to my eyes. Something she was hoping for I think. LOL.
Hopefully tomorrow, I will tell of these greatest gifts.
We met MIke the day before to go over our itinerary. That's one of them there fancy words for what we going to do. Heh. Anywho, we decided to meet around 6:30. He was thinking earlier but then decided to wait a little longer so that we could see Oak Creek Canyon as we drove through it. Actually up and over it. So we packed up a couple of gallons of water. I remind you that in the high desert it can be deceiving as it is not baking hot, but it is very arid. You have to keep yourself hydrated. We had packed some food also so we could picnic up there.
Well, we heading through uptown Sedona heading towards Oak Creek Canyon. Mike had us swing down this little side road where we could go over a small bridge that took you over Oak Creek. Did I tell you it is the only continuously running water there? Reminded me of the rivers in New Hampshire. Back up to the main road (89a) and up into the canyon. He noted a spot off the side of the road where they have a fountain where you can refill your jugs with spring water if need be. Free.
Very soon we were in Oak Creek Canyon and winding up the sides. You have to go up and over to follow the road up to Flagstaff. The road was narrow, twisty, and very close to the edge. Didn't help that we had rented a Toyota 4Runner figuring we might need the off-road ability. It did have a very large tank, which was good for this long trip, but murder at the pump. The view through the canyon was breathtaking. It was a long way down if I veered too far right. I held my breath. Okay, not really.
We followed 89a up to Flagstaff and jumped on 40 to circle around town to the east. I forget the highway we picked up, but we were heading up to Cameron. On the way, Mike had us stop at Sunset Creater Park. The park boasts remnants of the lava flow when the mountain exploded. There were various levels of lava rock, from the huge boulders of black to the fine sand on the hills where the weather had beaten it down. We walked through part of the park, noting the plants that managed to grow through all of this. One hill was entirely covered with the lava now disintegrated into small gravel and black sand. They don't let people go up the hill so as to preserve its appearance. We saw a similar lava field off of Route 40 in New Mexico last year. This particular one is said to have traveled all the way down to Sedona, leaving in its wake very fertile soil.
We headed out from there and on up through the Dene (Navajo) Nation, stopping off at the ruins of Wupatki. I think I spelled that right. These were ruins much like the Anassazi left behind only redder. It is amazing that a lot of these ruins were abandoned around the 1100's yet most of the walls are still standing. Can you imagine our houses today still standing after standing abandoned all these years? It is interesting to note that each family had an apartment that was maybe 8x8 if that. Of course, they spent most of their time outdoors and used these rooms just to sleep or storage. There was also a round walled in area, that I believed, based on what I knew of the Anassazi, to be a kiva. This would be where meetings and ceremonies would take place. Further down was another one but oblong with openings at both ends. The archeologists surmised it must be a ball field since the Sanaqua were descendants of the South American tribes. I noticed that it was right alongside the wash, so I thought that it might have been used to capture the rushing water during the rains and they would close off the holes when it was full creating a reservoir. After all, the things we know now of the Aztec, Olmec, Inca, and others were that they were brilliant builders. Just off to the right from that was a unique feature the Native Americans called "the Breath of the Earth". There was a hole in the ground that led to an underground cavern. When the air pressure was high, it would suck air in, when the air pressure was low, it would blow it out. Thus, the breath. Really quite an amazing place set in a valley where you could see for miles.
Leaving off there we traveled north and soon Mike pointed out to our right. He told us that area was what a lot of people come out to see, the Painted Desert. He said there wasn't much out there, he thought the things we were seeing were more special. We continued driving on up and stopped at a Dene roadside stand. Some amazing artwork, especially the horsehair pottery and statues. They also had some great jerky. We got back in the car and Mike pointed out that paralleling us was the Little Colorado with its own sets of canyons. Mike said that the Little Colorado flowed blue while the Colorado flowed green. He loved to camp at the spot where they came together. Caveat campers, even if the sun is shining when you are down in these canyons, keep your ears open. A storm could be going on twenty or thirty miles away and all that water comes and meets and rushes down these canyons. If you hear the rush of water, get to high ground quickly.
Eventually we entered the park and stopped at the Watch tower. The tower designed by Mary Coulter was to blend in with the surroundings and have a great view of the canyon. Built from stone it features a gift ship and then a tower that you can climb up in and look out over the canyon. The stairs going up are very narrow and it is open all the way down. Well, anyone who knows me knows that I have a problem with heights. I had more than ample trials to overcome this fear. I did go up and even looked over the edge to take a picture of Mike and Cindy down below. Neither was going to go up. The interior is done very nicely. They hired a Hopi artist to do the paintings on the walls. The chairs and a table in there are made from limbs and hides. I believe the shot here was taken down one of the paths near there. Now, I have heard some people say that the Grand Canyon is just a big hole in the ground, but what a hole. It goes on and on with varying colors from the reds found down south in Sedona to the white limestone. The limestone is there because at one time, this was ocean bottom according to geologists. it is hard to believe when you are standing there looking down into the canyon that at one time this was once under water.
After staying at the Watch Tower for a bit, we headed on to another stop. I don't remember all the names, but needless to say, when you stop, it is like seeing the canyon all over the place. Two things affect what you see, the viewpoint, and the lighting. I really suggest that anyone going there take the time to spend the day. You may think you stop once and that is it, but each lookout point offers its own views and visions. Oh, and Mike warned us when we stopped for lunch to keep our food close. The squirrels are rather aggressive as I was later to find out. No, he didn't take my food, but crawled up on the wall in front of me and then down right near me and over my shoe to get at some food. I have been around squirrels all my life but never had one come right up to me like that. Mike said that if I had food in my pocket, he might have gone in after it. While at one stop, we were treating to a pair of turkey vultures flying in the canyon. Their wing span is about six feet but they looked no bigger than a raven from where we stood. At one of the information boards we noted one of the dangers, not being knowledgeable of the terrain before hiking.
An olympic marathoner and her friend decided to go down into the canyon. Between the two of them they had a couple of power bars, an apple and only a litter and half of water. They enjoyed the decent, the views and the wildlife, but soon her friend started to get sick. You have to remember that you are at an altitude in a dry climate. Drink plenty of water is the rule. Well, she found some shade and tucked her friend in there. She then started back up to get help. She didn't make it. Searchers did find her friend alive and she survived. The lesson to be learned is that you can be in the greatest of shape, but this is harsh country and needs to be respected. Don't be fooled by its beauty.
Well, we continued on our trip until we made it to the main entrance. We were going to camp out here until sunset and then get something to eat. This is where I met Mr. Squirrel, but better yet three condors. Unfortunately they were resting at the time, so I only got pics of two on a rock ledge and one in a tree. By this time the afternoon sun was starting to cast long shadows on the canyon. Like I said, stick around, the lighting changes and it is an entire new canyon. I snapped off dozens more pictures and then we decided to go down over near the mule trail. Mike said that it was a great opportunity for us to go "below the rim". Mike and I made our way down the trail over thirty feet down the canyon. Cindy said it was just a little too close for her, so she stayed at the upper level . I managed to take a shot of her "below the rim:". Only ten feet, but still below the rim.
There are two mule tours. A day tour that goes down most of the way and out over the mesa. The other goes down beyond the mesa to the canyon floor. I believe Mike said that was an overnight tour. Where the overnight trail breaks away from the day trail is a wooded area. From the canyon top, it looked like a green strip of bushes. Mike laughed. He said there is a camp ground in the trees and they are 100 feet high. Um, let me just back away from this edge a bit. Yeesh! we went back up top and nosed around in the gift shop. Cindy went over to check out the hotel. I went over to the Hopi House which was another Coulter designed house fashioned after the ruins like Wupatki. It housed a museum and gift shop.
By this time, the sun was starting to set. The whole canyon took on the warm glows of oranges, golds, and reds. Once again, a new view of the same scenes that gave a totally new look. The condors were gone, so I missed them taking off. Darn. The area we were was at an indent rather than a point so the sun set over the point to the west of us.
Once the sun was down, we went to the restaurant inside. We had a great meal to restore our energy. What a day. All we had left was the long drive back to Sedona.
Going out the main gate you passed hotels, motels, and restaurants. A kitchy difference from the beautiful way when we came in from the east. By this time it was dark and we had to keep talking so that Cindy could stay awake. She had decided to do the driving as I drove all the way up and Mike wasn't covered on the rental. We went down the road and passed the Bedrock Campground with the big Fred Flintstone. Glad we didn't come this way in. It was long straight roads all the way down, that is until we hit Oak Creek Canyon. Let me tell you, Cindy was wide awake through those twisty roads up and over the mountain. We managed to make it home in one piece. Tired, but full of awesome visions.
I was truly blessed and have great thanks for all who helped to make this trip the fantastic adventure it was.
As great as this trip was, it didn't measure up to the notes, emails, and letters that I received from my wife's family and especially my daughter. My daughter's letter brought tears to my eyes. Something she was hoping for I think. LOL.
Hopefully tomorrow, I will tell of these greatest gifts.
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